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Eleanor of Toledo Gown

Towards the end of my apprenticeship, I was tagged by Mistress Alysia to make this gown for her. As I typically do over the top coronation-style garments. This gown was a bit of a shift and a challenge as it is very simple, but the details are quite complex. The goal was to showcase that I understood fit and finish.

I based this gown off of two gowns, both owned by Eleanor of Toledo. It is not a reproduction of either one, but rather it is an amalgam of her burial gown which you can find in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion and The gown in the portrait of Eleanor of Toledo below.

The fabric choice, sleeves, and neckline are based on the portrait and the closure method, bodice waist shape and skirt are based of the extant burial gown.

This was a tandem project for Kingdom A&S; I did the dress and Alysia did the shift and the partlet. It doesn't look that impressive compared to some of the other things I have done, but this was a very well researched dress and much of it is hand sewn. If you are curious about the dress, want to know why or how I did something, or just have a general question, please let me know. I am going to work on getting more and better pictures of this dress.

You can see close ups of the closures in the back. They are completely hand-worked in linen thread that I dyed to match.

Also, here is a close up of the pinked brown velvet guard that is identical to the one found on the burial gown. It is a heavy weight cotton velvet as opposed to silk, but it is bias cut velvet hand pieced together and then hand send to the underside of the hem.

Also, here is a close up of the cartridge pleats in the skirt...this is a departure from both the burial gown and the gown in the portrait as neither skirt was was cartridge pleated in this method, but it was done at the request of the Mistress Alysia...